24-27 April 2009, The India Experience

Let it be known that for many years I have had no interest to visit India. Not sure if that was because I am of Indian origin or because many people that have meet have said very little good about India as a whole. People often described as a polluted, dirty, poverty as seen no where else in this world and conjestion of people (over crowding) and poor local transportation. However, if one puts aside the views of others, you would be surprised to learn and find out that Delhi in fact offers a beauty rarely spoken of, as i discovered - captivating ancient historical monuments, old school museums, a vibrant and active art scene, top-notch resturants and a capitol which is literally littered with gems at every turn waiting to be discovered.  And this is me being honest. 

Randy and I stayed at the Ambassdor's residence in Delhi in an area that can only be described as the 90210 zip-code of Delhi. We spent most of our time in Delhi, sight seeing in the old city via rickshaw - which let me just say is an experience and a must do on anyone's list.  It is mind boggling how a man less than half my size with golf sticks as legs had the strength to ride around 2 grown men.  We also walked around the Delhi Fort, (Jama Masjid mosque) and shopped. The city in my view is stunningly rich in culture.

The main priority of our trip to India was to see the Taj Mahal. We took a day trip to Agra to see the famous mausoleum. The drive was literally an 8 hour return journey. DO NOT BE DISCOURAGED. No matter what people have told you, and no matter how many pictures or tv documentaries you have seen, nothing quite prepares you for the awe of the Taj Mahal. Of course everyone knows that the Taj Mahal is regarded as the world greatest example of Mughal architecture. Whilst we were having our tour of the Taj Mahal (which is nothing like Slumdog Millionaire), it was interesting to learn that the architect of the monument was actually Turkish, who borrowed styles of designs from the Persians, Ottomans, the Islamic world and the Indians. The Taj Mahal which was built by the Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan in memory of his favourite (third) wife Mumtaz Mahal, who died during the birth of their 14th child. The Taj Mahal is a dedication to the love shared between to people. Now if I could only get a monument built in my honour :-) .... lol

After having a lunch at the Oberoi Hotel in Agra with a great distant view of the Taj Mahal in the background, Randy and I ventured off to experience the Red Fort - the sight were the Emperor Shah Jahan lived and was later held captive by his son until his death.  According to the local guide, Shah Jahan died in the section of the fort which held an excellent view of the Taj Mahal. To me, the design and layout of the fort indicates the great architectural style of the times. There appears to be no compromise or side stepping/shorts cuts (as is so often today) in the layout or flow of the building, one chamber leading onto the next, each holding a breath taking view of the city of the Taj Mahal. 

This visit to India has only whet my appetite to see more of India. So don't be surprised in the years to come if I end up spending more time in this beautiful country.

 

10 April, Bisket Jatra in Bhaktapur, Nepal

It was Friday afternoon when Randy and I headed to witness the Bisket Jatra celebration in Bhaktapur.  We were in the square for about an hour or so before the start of the festival, so we made our way to a guest house that had a roof terrance restaurant to get a better (and safer!) view of the festivities.  From this vantage point, it was interesting to people watch and see the square and all available space in and around it fill up with people. Everyone was vying for a view of the festival yet to come. 

Similar to the White Machhenranath festival, the Bisket Jatra also involves a chariot but that is where the similarities stop. In the Bisket Jatra festival, a wooden chariot is dragged through the city in a tug of war battle. A good friend of ours, Rabindra Puri, explained that the tug of war is between the people of lower Bhaktapur (the part of the city near the river) and the people of upper Bhaktapur (away from the river on higher ground).  The Bisket Jatra is celebrated in the memory of the slaying of serpents in the valley by the prince at the time. 

The chariot is richly decorated in traditional Newar style (similar to the red and black saris worn by Newar women during temple offerings) and holds a deity of Bhairav in it.  Men of all ages, many intoxicated with homemade rice beer partake in this festival by pulling the chariot in opposing directions, each doing their part to ensure a positive outcome for their side.  The chariot is pulled from the middle of the square, down some uneven paved narrow streets and some tricky  and tight corners, all of which aimed at winning the tug of war and pulling the chariot to the relevant temple present on either sides of town.

As we watched this, all I could say was WOW.  I have downloaded some pics and a video on my facebook profile, have a look. There were times as they pulled this chariot in the little street below us,  the chariot had begun to sway back and forth, Randy and I could easily and yes patiently  awaited that moment when the chariot crashed to the ground.  But it never did.  It withstood all the pulling from one direction to the other and finally when it seemed like all was lost to the upper-town folks, as their opponents were doing so well and had made their way up a narrow street and steadily heading for the temple.  However, the upper-town folks got an influx of men and tried to turn the fate around and could have succeeded, which would have made for an interesting tug of war in this 3rd world setting, but it was not their day, as one of their 3 ropes snapped. As the snapped occurred the lower-town folks took hold of that window of opportunity and made good ground moving the chariot and the deity it carried steadily towards the temple that awaited it in the lower town.

Hope you enjoy the pictures.

19 April 2009, Thangka - Kathmandu, Nepal

Where ever I travel, I always buy something that reminds me of that country, be it a hand carved chess set, a carpet, or a set of antique tea pots. When I look at them months later I always have a smile on my face as I remember the memories of that trip.

Kathmandu, Nepal is no different. There is just so much to buy, Tibetan furniture, antique prayer wheels, traditional hand made Tibetan carpets, richly decorated door panels depicting the Gods of Buddhism and Hindusim and thangkas.  Deepak Chopra said that 'great art is a doorway to the divine', and thangkas are the embodiment of that sentiment.

The thangka is painted on white cotton, which after numerous applications of chalk and glue ends up looking like a white canvas. A thangka can be likened to a scroll painting, which can be found hanging in Buddhist monasteries and in Tibetain homes.  Because a thangka can be rolled up, centuries ago it became increasingly popular for monks traveling from one village  monastery to another to take their scroll painting with them. In Tibetan culture, the thangka serves as an important teaching tool. Thangka's differ in style and depiction of the Buddha in various stages along his path to enlightenment.  Two of the most popular thangkas are the 'Life of Buddha' and 'Wheel of Life', although if truth be told, as beautiful as these thangkas are, the Buddha in his individual form is enough to blow your mind away.  In traditional life, the Thangka is used to meditate upon. 

When a thangka is done in its traditional form, a colorful layer of three brocades will surround the scroll painting of the divine. Then a bright yellow or orange silk curtain will appear over the painting. It is said that in most Buddhist homes, the curtain always covers the scroll painting, and when any member of the family is praying/meditating, the curtain is pulled over the painting to enable the devotee to be visually and mentally stimulated by the image before him.

Naturally Randy and I have gone over board - to say the least.  After this last Sunday, between us we now own 7 Thangkas (the Mandala, Shakyamuni Buddha - depicting the Buddha at his moment of enlightenment; Palden Lhamo - the glorious goddess rides a horse through a sea of blood in a universe of flaming darkness; the Wheel of Life; the Amitabha Buddha - the Buddha of infinite light; and the White Tara - the Tara (similar to the western concept of an 'angel' sitting on the spheres of sun and moon supported by a blossoming lotus), neitherless to say more are on the way.

Enjoy the pictures and let me have your thoughts if you want a thangka. 

People of Kathmandu, Nepal

It is hard to describe what goes through my mind when I sit at a place like Boudha and people watch. It is amazing the story a face can tell. I have been in a unique position over the last few years to have traveled to many beautiful places (nothing quite beats home - Cape Town), and I have always find myself fascinated by people's faces. Their eyes (the window to one's soul), their hair (unkept and unclean), their cheeks, and the wrinkles that dominate their outlook to others. What we as members of western society visiting Nepal notice, are these faces and we think, how sad! He looks like he has had a rough hard life, a poor life by our standards, a life that has one challenge upon another (very different to what you or I would view as being challenges). 

However, the people in this beautiful country may live a simple life filled with hardship and poverty but their belief is strong and filled with hope of their next life. It is my understanding that here 'karma' is something every one believes in. For those of you who do not understand, 'karma', 'reincarnation' - "What goes around comes around" - In other words, it is the result of our past actions and our own present doings. We ourselves are responsible for our own happiness and misery -- meaning we are the architects of our own destiny and our own fate - our actions in this life, will affect our next life. This is the nutshell of understanding 'karma'. 

So when I people watch, I learn to appreciate their distinctive facial expressions, looking closely, I can sometimes see in the faces of others the hope and belief in a system that the western society frequently misunderstands and once wrinkles do appear we in the west mask those wrinkles with anti-aging cream and botox. But here, in Kathmandu, wrinkles tell the story of a life lived. A life with no regrets or wants, than what one is born with in this world. A life of simplicity.

White Machhendranath Festival, Kathmandu Nepal

We were warned of the masses of people, explained of the significance of the festival and told to be careful once the mob of Nepali devotees follow the chariot on its route to the ancient part of the city, but honestly nothing could have prepared us for this.  Witnessing this festival was something Joost and I did not expect (check out the video on my facebook site). Randy of course had seen this last year and was ever so excited to see this yet again :-)

The White ("Seto") Machhendranath (the embodiment of the God of compassion) begins its journey with its removal from its temple in Ason Tole, in Hanuman Dhoka.  The deity is placed on what could only be described as a rickety, creaky, towering wooden chariot (safety hazard in short). The huge wooden structure/chariot was supported by 4 equally large wooden wheels. The tower of this chariot looks like a Christmas tree (evergreen) - we were politely waiting for the Christmas lights to come on, although they never did and it was us justing wanting to understand and make sense of this festival by likening it to something the western world understands.  But the young men clinging to the top of the chariot did throw candy!

The crowds turn out in masses, I don't thing I have ever seen so many devotees in one place, let alone follow a chariot around the city as it makes it way to the ancient city. Enjoy the pictures :-)

Hanuman Dhoka, Kathmandu Nepal

Joost and I ventured off on foot one Friday afternoon to one of the very many sights located in the heart of the ancient city, that of Hanuman Dhoka - Durbar Square.  

The name Hanuman Dhoka Durbar is said to have been bestowed by King Pratap Malla in the 16th century after he had a statue of Hanuman (the monkey god) placed near the main entrance to the Royal Palace. The statue itself is red in color, and if flanked by 2 triangle metal flags with  a red canopy sheilding it from the sun.  The square itself is surrounded by numerous interesting temples, however, on this occassion Joost and I was on the hunt for was the 'White Machchhindra-nath' temple. It was the 'White Machchhindra-nath' festival, which involved a week long building of a chariot that is manually pulled through the city with devotees praying and chanting as they follow the chariot.

Another interesting site in this square is the statute of the terrifying Kala (black) Bhairav - which is literally a huge stone image of the Lord Bhairav which is said to be an avatar of Shiva in his destructive manifestation.  It has 8 arms, carries 6 swords, and axe, a shield and proud wears a garland of skulls (scary). It looks like the statute itself stands atop a corpse of some kind, said to be a symbol of human ignorance.  According to a local fable, the black Bhairav is believed to punish anyone who tells lies in front of him (the statue) by causing them to bleed to death. According to Katmandu's history (told by the locals), in the past criminals were dragged to the plead their innocence in front of the statue while touching Bhairav's feet.  In more modern times, the King's council of ministers were also compelled to give their reports on management of the state in the presence of the Kala Bhairav to ensure they were telling the truth.

Also located in this site is the Kumari Ghar (home of the Living Goddess).  The Kumari is considered to be the incarnation of the 'virgin goddess' - more about the Kumari on another day. Worth seeing also is the 'White Bhairav' which is only open to the public at least 3 or 4 times in a year, certainly a sight worth seeing.

Hanuman Dhoka offers so many interesting insights into the traditional beliefs of the Newar culture of the Kathmandu valley which I will no doubt share in future blog posting. 

Bhaktapur, Kathmandu Nepal

Bhaktapur is the best preserved medieval town in the Kathmandu valley, rich in temples and traditional architecture.

This was another great stop.  We decided to show Joosty this beautiful spot on his whirlwind 6 day stopover in Kathmandu.  Bhaktapur appears to be the centre of Newari lifestyle. On arrival at the entrance, we happen to witness a typical Newari festival with a long row of women dressed up in traditional dress (check out the pictures).  It was amazing to have a glimpse into the practises of an age old tradition still observed by the locals today. The city was founded in the 12th century by King Anand Dev Malla.  In contrast to Patan which has a large Buddhist community, Bhaktapur is largely Hindu.

As one walks through the golden gate on our way to the Taumadhi square, it is amazing to see the beauty and similarity between Patan and Bhaktapur.  As the tale goes, years ago during the Malla dynasty the valley was split between 3 siblings of the then-King and each city they took over  became an individual kingdom within the valley. Patan, Bhaktapur and lastly (to be discussed in the next posting) Hanuman Dhoka (Kathmandu).  There is so much going on in this city but my favourite site is the Nyatapola temple. 

The Nyatopola is the tallest temple in Kathmandu shape in the form of a pagoda which is 5 storeys  high. It is the temple of Siddhi Laxmi, positioned next to the temple of Bhairabnath. The steep stairway to the top of the temple is flanked by 5 pairs of huge stone guardians on each side of the stairway as you make your way to the top. According to legend, each pair of guardians are believed to have 10 times the strength of the pair on the next level immediately below them.  The 2 famous Malla wrestlers are flanked on each side of the stairway at the bottom of Temple.  They are meant to symbolise that they are 10 times more stronger than ordinary people. To follow the wrestlers on the next level are elephants which again symbolises that they are 10 times more stronger than the wrestlers, followed by lions, griffins and then the goddesses Baghini and Singhini.

There is so much to see in this city, as we strolled from one shop to the next, as we strolled from one great site to another, taking it all in, Bhaktapur translated to mean the "City of Devotees' known for its religious observances, nearly unchanged in hundreds of years, and is certainly worth a visit and worth every minute.

As Randy, Joost and I sat on a roof top cafe and took in the atmosphere of this city, I could not help but realise that amongst all the chaos, non-stop hooting, scary traffic and dog conferences held on a nightly bases,  Kathmandu is a truly beautiful place.

Patan, Kathmandu Nepal

It was Saturday morning in sunny, warm and smoggy Kathmandu.  Randy and I decided to show Joost a bit more of ancient Kathmandu with a tour of Patan, which is the second largest city in the valley. Patan is sometimes referred to by the locals as Lalitpur or Yala, which means 'city of beauty'.  Patan is the city that is renown for exquisite craftmanship in copper and bronze casting, particularly for religious idols.

Of the 3 cities within the Kathmandu valley, Patan has the strongest Buddhist influence and a long Buddhist history. The influence can be clearly seen as there are a large number of monasteries including the famous Hiranya Varna Mahavihar ('the Golden Temple').  Patan has a central square which is full of ancient temples, moments dedicated to the kings of Patan years ago and various shrines which devotees swarm to, called Patan Durbar Square.  Joost took in the sites with stops and photos of the Royal Place, the Krishna Temple and some of the beaten path sites and shops. The Krishna temple was constructed by King Siddhinarsingh Malla in the 16th century.  The temple is the only of its kind in the valley made completely of stone and has 21 golden tipped pinnacles. On my previous visit to the temple, I remember seeing paintings from the Mahabharata and the Ramayana. 

However, my favourite is the Golden Temple. It is truely a magnificent sight, a 3 story golden pagoda of Shakyamuni (Lord Buddha) which was built in the 12th century by King Bhaskar Verma.   Based on 3 pillars, 'The Buddha' (wisdom), 'The Dharma' (the right path), and 'the Sangha' (the unity of virtuous people), is popularly known as the Tri Ratna (3 jewels).  It is said that if we human beings follow the Tri Ratna, our life will be peaceful and we can ultimately help all others as well.  The temple is beautiful and a sight that is at times somewhat confusing because infused with all the Buddhist images and prayer wheels, there are symbols and images of Hinduism. What is truly amazing is that this 3rd world country could teach the world so much about religious tolerance and acceptance. I guess some lessons for some countries will have to be learnt the hard way!

 

22 March, Boudhanath Stupa, Kathmandu Nepal

If someone asked me where my favourite place in Kathmandu is, if I had to pick a place that represented the beauty, rich culture and unbelievable energy and atmosphere of the valley,  that place would be Boudhanath Stupa. Boudhanath Stupa is known as one of the holiest Buddhist sites in Asia.  I remember flying into Kathmandu my first time and the one thing that stood out to me was this site, which dominates the skyline.

The stupa itself is the largest in Nepal. It is the centre of Tibetan culture in the Kathmandu valley and is rich in symbolism, culture and is of sacred importance to Buddhists in the valley.  As we walked around the stupa in a clockwise direction with the Buddhist mantra echoing from all directions 'Om Mani Padme Hum' (Hail to the jewel in the lotus), I could not help but notice and observe in awe the Buddhist worshippers walking around the stupa praying and following ancient old traditions.  Around the base of the stupa in desginated areas and also on the ground around the stupa itself, Buddhist pilgrims prostrate themselves.  Pilgrims travel the route around the stupa by laying face down on the ground in worship, then rise and take a few steps before dropping back down again.  They then repeat the whole thing over again and again around the dome - or as I like to call it, the Tibetan version of 'hail marys'. 

The huge white dome has the "all seeing eyes" painted in red, yellow ands blue on all 4 sides. There are 108 small images of the Buddha (108 is an auspicious number in Buddhism) and 147 prayer wheels around the stupa. From the top of the stupa to the four corners of the stupa there are traditional multi-coloured Tibetan prayer flags blue (symbolising the sky), white (wind), red (fire), green (water) and yellow (earth).

As Randy, Beth and I walked around, taking in the splendor of Tibetan culture, we stopped and shopped at some of the local stores. If anyone reading this is ever in Boudha and would like to get their hands on a great thangka or a nice unique piece of Tibetan furniture PLEASE let me know. I know a great place for both and Boudha has loads of other local tchotchkes (prayer wheels, prayer beads temple horns and .....) 

We then stopped and had a local beer at the "Heavenly View" roof top restaurant, where we had a chance to introduce Beth to a Tibetan local treat - momo - which can be compared with a chinese steamed dumpling.  The only difference is this treat comes in a variety of chicken, vegetables and  water buffalo (my favourite). 

For me there is something about this place, and a magic that you just cannot overlook or ignore. You can be sure that in the coming weeks, I will be telling you more and more about Boudha :-)

  

21 March 2009 - Kathmandu, Nepal, hiking to Namobuddha

My first weekend in Kathmandu, I joined friends on a hike to Namobuddha.

After driving an hour and a half from Kathmandu, we reached Dhulikhel, from where I spent the day hiking with friends. the goal was to hike to Namobuddha, a Buddhist holy site, better known by Tibetans as Tag-mo lu-jin ('the place where the future Buddha sacrificed his body to a tigress'), a little village in the mountains, where the beautiful and stunning Thrangu Monastery lies. It is situated on a hill above the village of Panauti.  The hike from Dhulikhel to Namobuddha took about three and a half hours. It was relatively easy and passed through some culturally interesting villages such as Kavre and Phulbari before reaching the Buddhist monastery and stupa at Namobuddha. 

Accordingly to the Buddhist legend, the King Mahasattva gave his body to a hungry tigress at this place. His shrine stupa remained underground for centuries. One day a hermit called Bhagavan (Sakyamuni) came to this site and got attracted to the unusual hill. It is said that he clapped his hands, and miraculously the stupa appeared. 

After a pit-stop for lunch, it was time to hike back down again. It is amazing to find such a beautiful and amazing place in this Himalayan kingdom and get away from the hustle and bustle of the city. The pictures are amazing - enjoy.

7 – 11 March 2009, Explore Istanbul, Turkey

Since I left Amsterdam, I started my travels with a five-day trip to Istanbul, Turkey.

My days in Istanbul, weather-wise, were an even split between days of warm, dreary weather and days of beautiful sun as if it was summer in mid-March. Thanks to a good friend, I got to see the most beautiful spots of Istanbul and live like a local for a few days.

My first day began with a trip to the local market and eating of a gozleme (often referred to as the Turkish pancake-filed with spinach, cheese and parsley). The remainder of the day was spent visiting the various little neighborhoods along the coast on my way to the Bosphorus. It is truly a beautiful coastline, with many fisherman casting alongside the promenade fishing. Fishing towns nearby provided the best of the local scene.  We had lunch at this quaint little place called Adem Baba in Iskelesi and my God the food was great.  Friday night was spent bar- hopping from one cool and trendy bar in Istanbul to another - roof top restaurants provided a great view of the Asian side of Istanbul.

The remainder of my days in Turkey was spent doing the stuff tourists flock to Istanbul to experience: the Hagia Sophia, the Sultan Ahmed Mosque (known as the Blue Mosque), the Yerebatan Cistern, the Archeology Museum, Topkapi Palace, and the Suleymaniye Mosque.  All lived up to their reputations and all of which should be seen once in a lifetime.  The Blue Mosque is often described as one of the most revered masterpieces of the Ottoman Empire and is said to inspire deep admiration in all those who visit it.  Strangely enough, as beautiful and breathtaking as the Blue Mosque is, I could not help but think as I walked about inside the mosque, "Umm, it could be abit more blue."... lol ... For me the highlight was the Hagia Sophia. It is truly amazing to have had the opportunity to see the church within the mosque, which is so richly decorated with christian mosaics.

I also did what all tourist do when they go to Istanbul, SHOP :-) - and shop I did at the Grand Bazaar, the Egyptian Spice Bazaar (with a stop at the Rustem Pasta Mosque), the boutiques and shops of Beyoglue, Bebek, the trendy shops of Nisantasi, Taksim and many more. And the end result was I bought a stunningly beautiful traditional carpet in the southern Turkish style, and some other local tchotchkes.

For me Istanbul is a city to remember and is on my list to do again :-).

2 April 2009 Swayambhunath, Kathmandu Nepal

No visit to Kathmandu is complete without a visit to Swayambhunath, also known as the 'Monkey Temple' (loads of monkeys present in various parts of the temple).  Swayambhunath is known to the Buddhist community in Kathmandu as one of the most scared Buddhist sites (and the oldest), second only to the Boudhanath stupa (refer to my previous posting for more details).

The history lesson for today: Swayambhunath is said to be more than 2,500 years old and according to the travel guide (with the aid of Wikipedia), legend has it that the entire Kathmandu valley was once filled with an enormous lake, and the site itself marks the place where the legendary figure Manjushri discovered a lotus.  Manjushri is said to have had had long hair with head lice.  The head lice transformed into the monkeys that roam the site today, according to legend.  Seeing that the valley was a good place to settle and to make the valley for accessible to Buddhists, Manjushri raised his might sword, and cut a gorge in the ring of mountains that surround present-day Kathmandu.  The water drained from the lake, leaving the valley in which Kathmandu lies today. The lotus was transformed into a hill and the lotus became the Swayambhunath stupa. 

The site itself is considered to be Buddhist but one of the most amazing things that I have noticed about Kathmandu is religious tolerance -   the site is revered both both Buddhists and Hindus side by side.  Images and symbols important to both faiths coexist on the hilltop of Swayambhu.

My friend Joost recently visited from Amsterdam, and this was his welcome to Kathmandu. We made the long walk to the site from Buddha Parkvia a steep stairway and were blown away but what awaited us. There was so much happening, various local Nepalis performing their daily worship, qeueing to provide their offering to the attendant inside the hindu temple situated on the site.   At the same time Buddhists make their way around the stupa in a clockwise direction, touching the prayer wheels as they walk around and recite the Tibetan mantra.  As we were feeling overwhelmed by all that was going on in front of us, we took a few minutes to take account of our surroundings and turned around and looked out onto the spectacular view of the valley. Everything looked so peaceful and quiet which is so not like the valley itself :-)

Later as we made our way to Boudha, I silently read up on the symbolism of Swaymbhunath and was curious to learn that according to Buddhism the base of the dome represents the entire world. The 13 levels on the top of the base, represents the 13 stages a human being has to go through to reach enlightenment to reach the ultimate goal , Buddhahood. On the 4 sides of the main stupa there are a pair of the "ever watching eyes".  Above each pair is a third eye, which acts as a message carrier to heavenly beings when the Buddha preaches - and encourages those heavenly beings to descend to earth to listen to the Buddha and his teachings.  

Swaymbhunath, another one of those World Hertitage sites that is worth every minute of the long walk :-)